Coaster Tutorial

By Kellie Davis
on December 21, 2017
1 comment

Coaster Tutorial

Easy Coaster Tutorial

Need a quick hostess gift?  These coasters are super quick and easy and make the perfect last minute gift for anyone, but especially the hostess of the party.

Supplies needed for a set of 4 coasters:

  • 24 - 5" squares.  I used 4 fat quarters cut into 5" squares.
  • iron
  • sewing machine
  • thread
  • turning tool (pencil or chop stick)

 

First make sure all squares are even.  You need 6 squares for each coaster.  Set 2 squares aside and fold the other 4 in half and iron in place as shown.

Place the squares that were set aside wrong sides together.  The side that you want for the bottom of the finished coaster should be placed so that it is facing up.

Stack them with edges lined up and place one folded square on top with raw edges lined up along the top and folded edge in the center, as shown below.

Place another folded square with raw edges lined up along the side, as shown here.

Place a third folded square with raw edges lined up along the bottom.

Place the last folded square with raw edges lined up on the last side.  This one is a little tricky.  You need to lift up the corner of the first folded square and slide half of the final folded square under it.  All raw edges will be toward the edges and the folded edges will all be in the center of the stack.

Pin or clip in place and sew with a 3/8" seam allowance all the way around the square.  There is no need to leave an opening for turning.

Trim the corners up to the stitches being careful not to cut through the stitches.

Now, turn your coaster inside out from the center of the folded squares.  Use a chop stick or turning tool to push out the corners and you are done.  Repeat for the other 3 coasters and you have completed a set.  Stack them up and tie them with a ribbon for gift giving. They work great as wine glass markers, too.  Just make a set of all different ones so your guests always know which wine glass is theirs.

Don't forget the entire site is on sale for 30% off with coupon code HOLLYDAYZ through  12/27/17 with a minimum purchase of $7, even bundles.

 

 

Pillowcase Tutorial

By Kellie Davis
on December 21, 2017

Pillowcase Tutorial

Pillowcase Tutorial

Pillowcases make excellent gifts and can be sewn up quickly for those last minute gifting needs.  

Supplies needed for 1 pillowcase.  

  • 27" by width of fabric, w.o.f.,  ( 3/4 yd) of fabric for body of pillowcase for standard size case.  You will need 30" for queen or 35" for king.
  • 2" strip by w.o.f.  of accent fabric
  • 9" by w.o.f. for the band
  • thread
  • sewing machine

 

Once you have your fabric cut, measure each strip to make sure they are the same width from selvage to selvage.  Trim the selvages off and even them up to the same widths.  This is important for sewing the band in place.  

After all pieces are trimmed to the same width, sew with a zig-zag stitch, overcast stitch or serge the side and bottom of the body.  Go back and sew a straight stitch 3/8" from edge.

Now iron the accent strip and band pieces in half.  Sew the short ends of each strip together making sure to sew 3/8" seam allowance.  Overcasting or zig-zag stitching these seams isn't necessary as they will be enclosed.  

Fold and iron in half again and place one looped strip inside the other as shown.  Make sure to match up the seams on each strip and place the raw edges together.

With the body of the pillowcase inside out, tuck the band and accent strip inside the pillowcase as shown, being sure to place the seams of the band and accent strip against the seam of the pillowcase body.  Pin in place all the way around making sure the raw edges of the band, accent strip and body are all lined up.

Sew with a zig-zag or overcast stitch, or serge all the way around.  Go back with a straight stitch 3/8" from edge to secure.  

Turn inside out and use a pencil or chop stitch to push the corners out.  You can top stitch with a coordinating thread color to keep the accent strip in place and to give a more finished look.  The whole project takes about half an hour and will be a well loved gift.  

I love to package them with this sweet card and topper set similar to what is shown below.  It really makes the pillowcase gift special.  

 

Free Triangle Zipper Pouch Tutorial

By Kellie Davis
on December 19, 2017

Free Triangle Zipper Pouch Tutorial

Good Day All!

 

I am back again with a quick tutorial for making a triangle zippered pouch. These are great little sews that use up tons of scrap and are fairly practical. You can change the sizing of these to be as large or as small as you would like, plus they make a stellar hostess gifts; or in my case dice bags for my sons. If you have any dice game players in your family, this has been on one of my son’s lists for about 6 months, and since they take a few minutes to sew each of his Dungeons and Dragons buddies will be getting one with a new set of dice 😊. I apologize now that I do not have my son’s D&D dice (he refuses to let anyone else touch his) so I used his Cube Quest game for photo purposes and was promptly told I needed to now make sets for those games- lol.

 

 

So lets get started!

 

Supplies: For this tutorial I will be making approximately a 4 inch tall triangle pouch

2 pieces of 5x10 fabric, one will be your lining and one your outer.

2 Pieces of fusible interfacing (I had to piece mine together because I was running low. I used a midweight one but you can use the fleece or something heavier if you prefer the pouch to be stiffer)

1-7 inch zipper for the size that I am making, if you choose to resize this then you will want to make sure that your zipper length is longer than what is recommended here. I recommend using a vinyl over metal zipper

2-3 inch piece of ribbon (optional)

Sewing machine

Pins or clips

Zipper foot (optional)

 

******3/8 inch seam allowance is what is used throughout the tutorial********

 

Step 1 we are going to make sure we have the 2 pieces of fabric cut down to the 5x10 inch size then go ahead and interface both your lining and your outer. I opted for the mid weight for both pieces, if I were sizing this up, I would probably recommend at least one side fused with either heavier weight interfacing or fusible fleece to give it a shape that actually stands up well.

Next you are going to sandwich your zipper in between your outer fabric and your lining, with the fabrics right side together. You want to make sure if you are using directional fabrics as I did, that your zipper pull is at the top and face down on your outer fabric. This is where a zipper foot will come in handy, you want to sew as close to that zipper as you can get without actually sewing over the teeth of the zipper.

You will now flip the outer and lining over right side and topstitch along the edge you have just sewn (where my finger is pointing).

Now we are going to sew the other side. Place the outer fabric right side down on the zipper edge, you are going to be forming a loop with the outer fabric at this point since it will now be sewn on one side and pinned to the other side of the zipper.

You are going to do the same thing with the lining. After you pin it down, it should look like the photos below. Now you will sew this the same way that you did the other side, with your zipper foot getting as close as you can to the zipper.

Reach in between the 2 fabrics and unzip the zipper and turn your fabrics so your lining is on the inside and your outer fabric is right side out. We are now going to topstitch the other side of the zipper like we did earlier. Again using that zipper foot we are going to pull the fabric as tight as we can and sew down along the straightened edge making sure to stay clear of the actual zipper teeth.

This point you should have a tube shape with your zipper on top, you are going to turn your fabric so the lining is facing the outside and rezip the pouch. We are now going to sew the parts that will make the pouch a triangle. You will start with the zipper in the middle of the pouch and flattening the pouch so we can sew the bottom shut. Pin along the edge without the zipper pull.

You will now sew along this edge. Just a brief note, if you sew this edge and leave it like this it will have an unfinished edge. I recommend using pinking shears, a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine or serger to finish the seams.

We are going to unzip the zipper again and this time fold the pouch so that the zipper is folded in half and flatten the pouch again and pin. If you are adding a ribbon for a small loop you will add it now about ¼ of an inch from the zipper edge.

You will now sew this edge, finishing it with your preferred method you used earlier. Turn your little pouch right side out and you are all finished and ready to put what you would like in your little pouch!

 

 

Come show us in the group if you made any of these for stocking stuffers, teachers gifts or just because you thought they were cute!          

If you are new to sewing and would like to learn more about what starter machine to purchase, check out this blog for some great information.  

 

Free Kids Bath Mitt Pattern and Tutorial

By Tara Anderson
on December 18, 2017

Free Kids Bath Mitt Pattern and Tutorial

If you're like me,  you have a few old towles that have some holes in them.  This is the perfect project to upcycle those old towles or washcloths.  PLUS it's seriously a fast project.  I knocked out 3 of these in 30 minutes just today.  

Tutorial

You will need:
Terry cloth fabric or old towels
Knit Fabric Scraps
Cording/Ribbon/Rope/String cut to 9 inches long
Pins or clips
Iron
Sewing Machine 
Serger (optional) 

Pattern can be found here: Free Kids Bath Mitt Pattern

We will start just like every other pattern by printing and cutting the pattern.  Then lay your pattern piece and cut 2 from terry cloth fabric and 1 from knit fabric.  You could use woven fabric if you like, but you run the risk of it fraying over time.  

 

Next lay your knit fabric right side up over one piece of the terry cloth fabric also right side up as pictured below.  

Take the cording/ribbon/rope (whatever you have decided to make the loop out of) fold it in half and place it as pictured in the photo below.  Pin the loop taking care not to pin too close to the top so that you don't sew over your pin.  You will have about 1/2 inch overhang on the loop.  

 

Place the other cut piece of terry fabric over the knit/terry pieces you have pinned the loop to.  These should be right sides together.  Sew with a straight stitch or serge as indicated in the photo below using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  

 

If you have used your sewing machine to sew around the mitt you will need to clip the curves or use pinking shears to cut the seam allowance so that it will turn more smoothly.  Turn the mitt right side out.  Use a turning tool or chopstick to smooth out the edges from the inside so that you have nice curves.  At the point you may press the mitt , but it isn't a must.  

Turn the bottom of the mitt under 1 inch, press the hem.  Sew around the hem.  You can use a straight stitch if you like or you can get fancy with another stitch.  I like to use my double needle to hem everything.  I just like the way it looks.  

 

So easy! You have completed your bath mitt!!  I tried it on and it fits my hand, so you could use this for adults as well.  I hope you make a ton and use all your scraps!  

 

 

As always take care and happy sewing, 
The Pickle Toes Patterns Team 

 

 

 

FREE Christmas Stocking Pattern and Tutorial

By Pickle Toes Team Jennifer-Laurie
on December 06, 2017
1 comment

FREE Christmas Stocking Pattern and Tutorial

Happy Holidays to all. I love stockings. For me, it doesn’t really feel like Christmas until you have them hung up waiting for all your goodies from Santa. This year Kellie is super awesome and created a freebie for all our followers. And today I am going to walk you through creating your own special stockings like I did this year. Snag the pattern here.

 

 

Kellie has included 2 different sizes plus a color blocked larger stocking for you to choose from in this pattern. I have looked at several different ways to construct this pattern and found the method I am going to use to be the easiest. And lets get started making some fun holiday stockings!

 

Supply list:

Pattern can be found here: Christmas Stocking

 

Fabric (I had 3.5yds for 6 stockings)

Ribbon

Cutting mat

Rotary cutter

Interfacing (if you would like to use it, I did not use it in mine because I prefer softer stockings, however if you are loading your stockings very full with heavy items you may want to consider using midweight interfacing)

Pattern pieces

Sewing machine

Pins

 

 

*****3/8 inch seam allowance was used for this tutorial*********

 

First decide which pattern you are going to be using (for the sake of this tutorial, I will be using the color blocked version). Then cut out your pieces. You should have your outer fabrics (the stocking body and color block pieces and your cuff) and lining pieces (stocking body and cuff). If you are using interfacing, you will interface your pieces now.

 

 

Next for the color blocked version (if you are doing the plain version you can skip to the next step) you will pin the toe piece to the stocking body. I like to pin the middle then ease the curves together while pinning to the outside. Once you sew it, you’ll push the seam toward the body of the stocking (I like to iron here) and topstitch. You will do the same process for the heel.

 

Now you can begin attaching your cuffs to you your stocking bodies. You will attach your lining to your outer cuff piece, right side together for both the front and back of your stockings. Then you will attach your lining pieces to your outer cuff piece right side together also for the front and back of your stocking.

 

 

Now you will sew your stocking outer pieces together. Open up the cuff pieces at pin the stocking right sides together, making sure to line up the cuff seam. Sew from one corner of the cuff, down the body, around the toe and back up to the other side of the cuff.

 

 

 

You will do the same thing for the lining but if you are adding the ribbon so your stocking may hang then you will add it prior to pinning and sewing. I found the best place is just between the cuff and body. Now pin the lining and sew together.

 

 

The next step is to line up your stocking and lining, right sides together. And you will sew the stockings together at the cuff. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end, and also to leave a hole for turning your stocking (I like to put the hole on the back of the stocking).

 

 

Once you have attached your lining and outer together at the cuff, now you get to pull your stocking through the turn hole. Once you have pulled the stockings completely through the hole, you will push your lining into the stocking body so that your pieces are now wrong side together and you have fully enclosed seams. Press your stocking and cuffs so they are nice and flat, making sure that your turn hole is folded in, pin and close by top stitching the cuff.

 

 

 

Fold your cuff down and if you would like press the cuff again and you are all finished.

 

 

Make sure to pop over to the group www.facebook.com/groups/pickletoespatterns and show us your fabulous stockings!

 

Fleece Ear Warmers- Sugar and Spice Hack

By Tara Anderson
on November 29, 2017

Fleece Ear Warmers- Sugar and Spice Hack

How to hack the Sugar and Spice Headband into fleece ear warmers

So it's getting pretty cold here in Ohio.  My girl needs some ear coverage.  What's cuter than ear warmers with a bow?!?!?  And you know dolly need a matching one too... because dolly always needs a matching one these days.  I'm going to show you how to hack the Sugar and Spice Headband pattern located here: 
Sugar and Spice Headband 

 

First you will need to cut your fabric. 

Because fleece isn't as stretchy as most knits I suggest that you add 1-2 inches to the written measurements for the length of the band portion.  Depending on how thick and or stretchy your fleece is.  If you have thin and or pretty stretchy fleece I'd add only an inch.  If your fleece is thick and or not very stretchy I would add 2 inches to the length.  

You will only need to cut ONE bow piece.  Fleece can be kind of heavy for all that bow.  I also have cut down the width of the bow because it's a bit large for an ear warmer.  You can use the measurements if you REALLY love big bows, but I suggest cutting 2 inches from each side of the bow (only for people not dolls and bears.  You can use the written measurements for the bow piece if you are making doll or bear ear warmers).  For example if you are making the 2-12 year one I would cut the bow 4X6.  Like I said, this is my preference, and if you like awesomely giant bows, go for cutting the bow how the pattern says.  

Cut the bow center using the measurements in the pattern.  

 

Sewing 

Sew as directed in the pattern instructions.  EXCEPT skip over the part about sewing the bow piece.  You will not need to sew the bow piece because only one bow piece has been cut.  When you have finished you will have just the cutest fleece ear warmers ever... and don't forget dolly!  

 

 Hope you make tons and tons of cute fleece ear warmers!  



As always take care and happy sewing, 

The Pickle Toes Patterns Team

 

 

 

Trick or Treat Bag Tutorial

By Pickle Toes Team Jennifer-Laurie
on October 26, 2017

Trick or Treat Bag Tutorial

Want a fun bag for trick or treating?  Or maybe just a fun bag for shopping, toys or the library?  This tutorial is just what you need.

Read more »

How to Make Unpaper Towels and Cloth Napkins- a super easy Naptime tutorial

By Tara Anderson
on August 27, 2017

How to Make Unpaper Towels and Cloth Napkins- a super easy Naptime tutorial

This week at Pickle Toes Patterns we are going to do a tutorial!

As a mom of 4 I am always trying to figure out ways to cut costs.  Using unpaper towels not only saves you some cash, but it is good for the environment!  2 checks in the win box for me.  I am all about saving some cash while saving the environment.  Making unpaper towels and napkins is SUPER EASY and you can zip right through a ton of them at nap time.  I hope you get some great use out of this tutorial.

Making Unpaper Towels and Napkins With a Serger

Supply list:

Flannel Fabric

Straight edge ruler

Marking pen

Serger

Serger thread

Steam iron

OPTIONAL sewing machine and machine thread (for making an X through your unpaper towels)

Something with a rounded edge ( I like to use a coffee cup)

 

Step 1

Measure your fabric.  For unpaper towels you will want squares that measure 13X13.  You will need 2 squares for each unpaper towel.  For napkins you will need squares that measure 6.5X6.5.  You will also need 2 squares for napkins.   I have used red to mark my cuts so that you can see the cuts in the photo.

IMG_4050

 

Step 2

Once you have measured your squares take the rounded object that you have (such as a coffee cup or a can) and round off the corners.  This will make it easier to serge your fabric.  Plus it makes it looks a little nicer.  Do this on ALL of your edges for the napkins and unpaper towels.

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Step 3 Cut your fabric

Cut your fabric using the rounded edge cut lines that you have created with your cup/can/round object.

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Step 4

Place your rounded squares WRONG sides together and pin them in place.
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Step 5

Serge all the way around the fabric.  I recommend starting your serging right after a corner.  Do not start directly on the corner.  Corners can be tricky.  Take your time and go slow if needed.  When you meet the other end snip your thread and pull the tail tight so that it will not come undone.  You only need to trim off the edge when serging.

You can either be done at this point with a perfectly functioning napkin and unpaper towel set, or you can go to the next step.

IMG_4059

 

Step 6 OPTIONAL

Take your napkin or unpaper towel, fold in half on the diagonal.  Iron to set the fold.  Open your unpaper towel.  Now fold in half on the diagonal the opposite way.  Iron to set the fold.  You should end up with an X ironed into your fabric.  Now sew a zig zag, a curvy stitch, or even a straight stitch using the ironed X as a guide.

IMG_4060IMG_4061IMG_4062

Now you are all finished making your napkin and unpaper towel set!

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That is all for this week!

Until next week take care and happy sewing,

The Pickle Toes Patterns Team

 

 

 

Newsboy Cap Tutorial

By Kellie Davis
on August 27, 2017
1 comment

Newsboy Cap Tutorial

It’s been a while since I’ve posted on my blog.  Many of you know I was diagnosed with the big “C” for the second time back in May.  I am done with my treatments and back in the clear, but with the weather getting cool here in the south, my head has been a bit chilly.  I made myself one cute hat for Halloween, but it’s only acceptable to wear for the month of October.  I’m tired of wearing my other hat every day, so it was past time to make myself some new hats.  Only one problem….all my patterns are packed away while we remodel the house.  
 I scoured the web for an acceptable pattern with no luck.  What did I do?  Why make myself a new pattern, of course!  It’s not perfect, but it is exactly what I was looking for.  You can get your pattern pieces here, and follow along with me while I walk you through each step.  
This pattern has 3 basic sizes, and is sized for teens to adults.  The smaller size with fit up to a 21″ head, the medium size up to a 23″ head.  and the larger size up to a 25″ head.  I will show you how to adjust to fit sizes in between.  
First, measure your head where your hat will sit and add 1″.  This is how long your band needs to be.  You will cut 2 strips of fabric 2″ wide and the length you just figured.  This measurement will also tell you which size hat piece you will need to cut out. 
Next, print your pattern, available here.  Make sure your 2″ test squares are accurate so your hat is the correct size. Cut out all pieces.  This hat was made without a lining, so I only cut 6 pieces of my cap fabric.  I just used cotton for the body.  If you use knit, I would reinforce it with a lightweight fusible interfacing. My bill and band were cut from denim with a slight stretch, but any mid to heavy weight fabric will do as long as you have a good mid to heavy weight fusible interfacing.  Once you have all pieces cut, iron your interfacing to the wrong side of your pieces.  My denim was reversible and I chose the lighter side for my “right side”, so the interfacing was ironed onto the darker side.
 
Now you sew the main cap pieces together.  Pin 2 pieces right sides together sewing from base to point using a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Encase the raw edges using a serger or zig zag stitch to cover the raw edges.   Sew another piece onto this section so that you have 3 hat sections together.  Make 2 of these as shown below.
                              Pin the two halves of the hat body together making sure to match the points so that all points come together at the center top.  I place one pin at this point and sew, but if you’re a beginner, you may want to pin around the two sections so you feel more secure.  Sew as shown below.  My hat isn’t lined, but if you want yours lined, you would follow the same steps to complete another had body.  Instructions for a reversible hat will be in a future blog post.  This one will not be reversible.
photo-nov-18-3-15-14-pm-2
Sew your hat band into a circle by folding in half and sewing the raw edges using a serger or zig zag stitch to cover the raw edges. Come back with a 2nd line of stitching using a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Check to be sure the band still fits your head.  If it doesn’t, pick out the 2nd line of stitching, you may have gotten your seam allowance off a bit.  Continue using a 3/8″ seam allowance on all other pieces. Fold your hat band in half and place a pin to mark the center front, back and both sides.  Now you can sew your band to your hat body.  Turn your hat inside out and pin the band, right sides together, to the right side of your hat.  Pin the center front of your band to the center front of your hat body right sides together. If your head is between sizes, you can either gather around the hat so it fits the band, or you can do what I do and just fold a little pleat at each seam as you pin.
photo-nov-13-3-48-08-pmphoto-nov-13-7-33-03-pm This pic is to show the pleat at the seams so that my hat would fit my band.  I prefer this method to gathering, but you can gather yours to fit.
Iron your fusible interfacing onto the wrong sides of your hat bill following manufacturer instructions.  Place the two bill pieces right sides together and sew using a 3/8″ seam allowance.  Serger is not recommended for this step. Use the tip of your scissors to snip the curve up to but not through the stitching as shown above.
Turn hat bill inside out and finger press seam smooth.  Top stitch using a 3/8″ seam allowance, or whatever your preference is.  This is a cosmetic stitch as much as it is a construction stitch.  You can continue making circular stitching following the first line of stitching with your presser foot like the 2nd photo below if you choose.  It will give a stiffer bill.  This works great with lighter weight fabrics. Now, fold the bill in half and lightly press the center just enough so you can see it.  Place this point at the center front of the hat band sewn into the hat as shown below.  Pin in place and baste in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  You just want to catch the bill and band so the next step is easier. Next, turn hat inside out with bill tucked inside the hat as shown below.  Pin the second band piece to the first, sandwiching the bill between the two bands.  Make sure to match the seams in the back pinning right sides together. Sew a second line of stitching just past your first line to give the bill a stronger seam and to insure that you have caught all raw edges. Flip the hat right side out and fold the band to the inside, exposing the bill.  Press the seam so that the seam is centered around the hat edge.  Top stitch in place.   Flip the bill down so that the two band pieces are together and the hat is pushed away from the band edges. Sew the inner band to the outer band at the raw edge.  Use a serger or zig zag stitch to cover all seams.  You can also use an overlock stitch as show below on the gray hat.  This is my favorite stitch to sew with when using a serger isn’t an option.  I sew knits and wovens with it and have never had any issues with it.    Congratulations!  Your hat is complete!  You can embellish it or wear it as is.  Go rock your DIY Newsboy Cap!

 

How to Make a Table Runner in 10 Minutes

By Kellie Davis
on August 26, 2017

How to Make a Table Runner in 10 Minutes

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Ignore the wrinkles and the fact that it's on a side table. We are still remodeling and haven't gotten our table out of storage just yet. We will have it all back together next week with proper pics of the complete set.

Table runners are an easy way to make your table festive for the holidays, or just dressed up for any occasion. This is also a great gift for a friend or host of the party, especially when paired with the place mats and napkins coming up on next week's blog post.  They can be made in any size you like.  Mine is 15" wide and 54" long.   I used fabrics from my stash to make this table runner along with matching place mats and napkins so my fabric determined the size for me, but you can make yours in whatever size you need.

To determine the size table runner you need, measure the length of your table and add 12" for overhang and 3/4" for seam allowance.  The width should be between 15" and 18".  To make the table runner and matching placemats with napkins using my measurements, you will need about 2 1/2 yards each of two coordinating fabrics.  I chose print for the front and solid for the back, but you could easily have 2 different seasonal fabrics to change as the seasons change, or just two different holiday prints for mixing and matching to suit your mood.  If you're anything like me, you don't want to look at the same thing every day anyway so why not have some fun with it.

The first thing you need to do is wash, dry and iron your fabric.Once that is done, the runner will sew up very quickly.  Now you can cut out your table runner.  Using a rotary cutter, ruler and mat,  cut your fabric to the desired size.  Repeat for each fabric making sure they are the same size.  If you goof, like I did, just place the two fabrics right sides together and trim off the extra bit so that they match up in size.

Now that the two fabrics are the same size, pin them all the way around to keep them together as you sew.  Sew using a 3/8" seam allowance all the way around leaving a 3" opening for turning.  Trim off excess fabric from corners but not cutting into the stitches.

Stitch all the way around leaving an opening for turningTrim off cornersMake sure not to cut into stitching

You are half way done!  Turn you runner right side out.  Using a turning tool (chopstick), push out the corners of your table runner so they are nice and pointy.

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Take your table runner over to the ironing board...you know, that thing you only use for sewing...and iron the seams nice and even.  Fold the seam allowance of the opening even with the sewn seams so that it doesn't show once it's top stitched.  Sew all the way around your table runner about 1/8" in so that you catch the seam allowance in the stitching. This will close up the opening and give a nice, finished look.   You are finished with your table runner and it only took about 10 minutes!  Great job!  Make sure you share in my group on Facebook and use code GIFTS16 to enjoy 35% off on everything in my site store or my Etsy shop through 12/15/16

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